Dayco Belts Knowledge Base
Whats the best brand for serpentine belts. I've heard of Dayco and gates....? I need serpentine belt. I origonally got a dayco belt with a one year warrenty. But I called a mechanic and he said anything less then gates sucks. He was reluctant to do it with the belt I got so i returned it, and he said the belt he had was just about equivelent to the gates brand he mention. I have no idea what this guy is talking about But all I want to know is a good decent brand for the money. and as a side note how much a mechanic should charge for the belt replacement If I supply the belt
What is the best belt for a S10 with common squels? I have changed my Serpentine belt several times and replaced my tensioner and idler pulley but for some reason the squek comes back sooner or later. I currently have a dayco belt on it and have used the warrenty to swap it like 3 times now. It works for about a month or two then comes back.
Does brand really matter when purchasing belts?>? My car currently has Mitsuboshi belts, a similar belt in price would be BANDO the next highest cheapest available at my auto parts store is DAYCO What do you recommend this is for a Honda Accord For both the Serpentine and Power Steering I am still getting 9 years out of my Motorcraft belt on my Ford, it hasn't snapped yet. I want something that will last me a long time.
Squealing Belts On Cold Starts? I have a 1995 Ford Laser KJII. And for a little while I've had trouble with the belts. First of all, they started squealing like everytime I started the car and died down and stopped squealing about 20-30 seconds later, and then were always fine. Not long after, I replaced the belts, took the pulleys off the gave them a extensive clean to remove every last bit of grime on them, and then put brand new Bosch belts on there. The car has a B6 motor if any of you are familiar with it, and has the crankshaft pulley with a belt connecting the power steering pump and A/C. And another belt connected to the crankshaft pulley which runs the alternator and waterpump. I know for sure that is is the alternator/water pump belt as I've tried the 'butter' solutions which no doubt proved the squealing to be coming from the alternator/waterpump belt. It is at it's worst particularly on cold/damp mornings or at night, when it is cold. It is also worse when the car is started with the A/C on, regardless of this fact, it is the alternator/waterpump belt. This just puts more load on the crankshaft pulley which then in turn puts more load on the alternator/waterpump belt. I tried putting 'CRC Belt Squeal' on the old belt before I changed them, which stopped the problem for a good 3 cold start ups. After replacing the belts, I tried re-tightening them (which did nothing), using butter on them (which temporarily fixes the problem for 2 cold starts) and 'Dri-Lube' (which quietened the belts but prolonged the squealing. I am confident its also not the pulleys as they don't make a grinding sounds or anything like that, and have had that backed up with my cousin who is a mechanic. Any help would be appreciated, but please no 'put belt dressing/squeal' on this as I've got many opinions as this just further damages the belt, also Dayco recommend to never ever use Belt Squeal. So I'm definitely not risking ruining these belts. The car does rev very high on cold starts, a quick pulse upto 2500revs/min and then straight back down (as I've done work on it) I'm suspecting this is the problem, as since the motor is revolving so fast, is doesn't give the belt a change to grip. Large force over very very little time doesn't work well when grip is needed. This is extremely frustrating as I've exhausted all my options and am also frustrated as I cannot fix such a simple problem while other work I've done on the car has been extremely complicated, and in the end, that all worked out fine. Such a small problem, such a huge load of annoyance! Thankyou! Sorry about the extremely long description too :) The squeal is deafening I will add, it probably could be heard kilometres away. It turns heads, but in the totally wrong way.
Dayco or Drive Rite or does it matter? I put a drive rite belt on my cavalier cause drive rite is cheaper. but it is still sqeauling. could it be the belt? I have also replaced the tensioner. I am lost I dont know why it is still squealing.
What automotive drive belt brands are the best? Looking to put new belts on my truck. Ive heard of Bando, Dayco, gatorback etc.... ITs For a 2000 Nissan Frontier Xe v6 3.3L 82,000 miles. I dont want cheap brands lookin for the good stuff and also where to get it.
Dayco or Gates? I'm replacing a Gates belt that I put in only 3 years ago on my '94 F150? I'm replacing a Gates belt that I put in only 3 years ago on my '94 F150. It's getting VERY squeaky and has tiny cracks between the ribs. Do serpentine belts normally wear out that fast? I always hear people brag about Gates but am wondering. oh i put some Prestone Belt Dressing on today and the sound went completely away; until it dried......then sounded like 40 screaming babies when i drove it. Then i held a bar of soap to it and the got it to be quiet for 30 miles. I haven't seen any benefit from belt dressing. Maybe it has its place when the belt is newer. if it was a tensioner pulley, then why would it get quiet when i put soap on the belt? i guess the pulley could be out of alignment since it's coming from that location (power steering pump/tensioner area)
whats the trick to installing automatic belt tensioner on 1995 f150 351 engine? I am trying to replace the tensioner on my truck but am having problems. One of the problems is the spring in the spring tensioner keeps popping off whenever i try to assemble the thing. Any tricks to resolving this? P.S. if you need to know the brand of the tensioner its, dayco "No slack" automatic belt tensioner. Don't know if that helps. I have the original one removed, its the new one I'm having problems with with installing it.
Can't get a replacement serpentine belt on a 4 cylinder 99 Wrangler.? This is definitely the proper belt and is routed correctly. I'm using a Dayco belt (910K6, 6PK2310), and the factory diagram. My Jeep has power steering and AC. The replacement belt seems to be just to small to get on the pulleys, and I even dropped the manual tensioner all the way down. Two grown men could not get this belt on. I think it might be due to the weather since it has been between 30-35 degrees F in Ohio. Any support for this idea or alternate theories? The stamp on the belt matches the packaging, and that belt is correct according to dayco's website. As for a different brand are there any brands that are known to fit slightly looser?
1996 Ford Escort LX belt too tight? Just purchased a new serpentine belt for my moms '96 Escort LX. Dayco belt number is 5060505 as recommended by the guy at Advanced Auto. I'm thinking this is the wrong belt maybe? I have turned the belt tensioner as far as humanly possible without removing any other parts of the car and this thing still looks and feels like it comes up about a half an inch short. I was looking through the manual and noticed that the belt recommended for the same car WITHOUT A/C or power steering is an inch longer than the one I purchased. Could this be a mistake on Ford's part or should I just hang thing thing a day or 2 and hope it stretches to what I need?
How to measure/buy a V-Belt? Buy a longer one? How do you know the length of a V-belt? I have a Dayco L470 it says 48X700 Whats the 48 stand for whats the 700 stand for I need a belt a total of about 6 inches more in length (I suppose if you stretched out the belt it would actually make it 3" longer) please help
1995 chevy lumina repair? just got my 1995 chevy lumina repaired and got it back 4 days ago. problem before was the intake manifolds-gaskets. Got that fixed and everything "topped-off" and now have driven only about 10 miles in that time and am noticing a slight red, slight leak that drips onto the ground somewhere around the engine. what is it? is it bad? also do i actually need to do more driving around to "break in" the new parts that got put in it? this is the list of new parts that got put in: Lower and Upper Intake gasket Valve Cover Gasket Thermostat oil/filter/lube anti-freeze lucus oil stabilizer dayco belt tensioner cooling system connector there was also a note that says "no guarantee-water was getting in oil and engine has been hot." any help is appreciated!
What size Fan belt do i need? Well my fan belt squeals really loud when accelerating and it hasnt been replace in god knows how long. so i wanted to go over to autozone and pick up a new fan belt. though i dont know if this will fit. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Top-Cog-V-Belt-Dayco_3300026-P_12_R|GRPBELTAMS_597874191___ If that doesnt will tihs? and whitch one do you reccomend? http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_V-Belt,-Spun-Cog-Drive-Rite_5064457-P_12_R|GRPBELTAMS_597783671___ Thanks
renault kangoo/clio ect 1.9 d f8q engine timing belt ??? i have set the engine to tdc using the mark on the flywheel then using the timing tool that holds the crank (a screw in pin) and tried to put the belt on using the marks on the new belt but the marks dont line up its 2 teeth out , i wonder if the belt is the write one? maybe too many teeth ? i have checked the belt on there website (dayco) and its showing its the write one. would they make different size belts , any ideas please thanks Probably not the "write" belt - but it may be the "right" one. 13 minutes ago Source(s): I paid attention in school. and you still give the wrong answers you pretentious as*hole cheers for positive reply changed tensioners with that? Does fitting the tensioner wheel (some call it the 'idler') pinch the belt in by two teeth? you have to get the belt lined up properly then tension it , i think its called the positive a negative sides of the belt . you get all the lines lined up on the right hand side of the belt the tension the slack left side . i think thats about it anyways has anyone heard of the cam pulleys playing up on the 1.9 diesels or the need to replace it when changing the cambelt? right what it is, the puleys have marks and belt has lines and directional arrows that are supposed to line up with the marks on the pulley,the tensioner is lossened off all the way but the marks dont line up. is it the wrong belt or could the cam pulley move? any ideas Dont worry about the lines turn the engine over 4 revolutions if nothing snags start it up .Did you count the number of teeth on your old belt no i did'nt count number of teeth on the old belt , something i should have done. as for the not getting the lines right, how would i no where exactly to put the diesel pump pulley!! it shows on the auto data print out that its around 3 o-clock or a certain amount of teeth from the camshaft pulley, do you think it'll be allright doing it like that? cheers Ernie F as above
The serpentine belt on my 96 chevy K1500 is squeaking.? It started a wile back and i have been just living with it. Had some belt dressing that i sprayed on it (bad idea) made it 100 times worse, now it squeaks all the time. The belt tensioner is at its max travel i.e. it wont put anymore pressure on the belt because it is hitting the stop but seems to be as tight as it should be. The belt is a dayco I think (replaced a couple years ago). Is this belt to long? Should I try a new one? Should I replace the idler and tensioner pulley. P.S. The alternator was replaced with an A C Delco unit from NAPA about 6 months ago. No cracks on belt and tensioner was replaced about 1 1/2 years ago and will travel up and down fine it just hits the stop built in to it. I thought it was supposed to sit about half way through its travel so it could move back and forth a little. The radiator IS leaking coolant somewhere around where the tranny coolant lines go into it. I guess it has a crack where the the plastic meets the aluminum. Planning on replacing it with an all aluminum one soon. Some of the coolant could have gotten on the belt.
Changing Sepentine Belt on 1996 Chevy Biretta L4 2.2L? Overheating, leaking fluid, and loss of power steering. I guess I need to replace the serpentine belt? Can anyone give me good(nearly step by step) instructions for replacing the belt? And also, which is the best to buy? Goodyear, Dayco, Drive-rite. How much to just get some pro to do it for me?
Is this a total automotive fluke? We own two vehicles, a 1999 malibu and a 1998 dakota. The belt on the car was replaced about two years ago and has squealed ever since, no matter what we do. We've bought belt dressing, we've used soap, we've replaced the tensioner and we replaced the idler tensioner. Nothing has gotten rid of the squeal. Just recently, my husband's belt started squealing on the truck. The tensioner was wore out, so he replaced that and the squeal is just as bad. All the parts we've bought, we got from a national auto parts chain that is completely not at fault and will not be named. But the parts are Dayco brand. Has anyone else had a bad experience with this brand? Any suggestions for the squealing belts? I mean besides just turning the radio up like I've been doing for 2 years? btw, my husband is a mechanic, a "real mechanic" not a shade tree backyard mechanic. I really want to know if anyone else has had trouble with this brand...
Is 02 Focus with 2.0 SOHC an interference engine? I have found different sites that tend to have different opinions.Gates says no...Dayco says yes. Advance auto says it is on their website.Does anyone know for sure? I have an individual with a broken timing belt and I want to know what I might be getting into.
Is my Dodge Stratus timing off, misfiring, or my imagination? I have an 05 Stratus with the 2.4L interference engine (X vin). It's coming on 90K miles and I'm going to change the oil when it gets there(Mobil 1 and it will be a 5K change with K&N oil filter). The timing belt, thermostat, and water pump were changed at 80k with Dayco, Superstat, and ACS parts respectively. At 85k, I replaced the plugs with NGK Iridiums. My problem is that when I crank the car, the belt squeals until I let it idle for a minute, and it sounds like the exhaust is off a little and I can feel the engine shudder, but not violently. I have one of those cone K&N air filters, it this matters. Also at stops, the steering wheel slightly vibrates, but not as bad as before I had a 4 wheel alignment. Recently, today as I drove at night, I noticed that my new lights were slightly flickering, along with the dash and radio. I turned on the inside light and it flickers as well. Also at night, during the first complete stop I make, the lights dim, then come back on. So, what is up with my Stratus? Did I get a faulty install? Do I need a coil pack and new wires? The car drives ok and shifts without a problem. I'm going to brush and clean the battery today, as well as change the side terminal connectors to see if that helps with the lighting problem. Please take note that I take care of my car and that all regular maintenance is performed. I hope I provided enough info to make a good diagnostic. Any help, especially by the Dodge Man, would be highly appreciated and thanks in advance. Also, I do NOT have never had any check engine codes. I have done the "turn off, turn on" thing recently and still no codes.
What Belt Brands Are Good? Here we have goodyear gaterback and milege maker beck arnely duralast valuecraft dayco drive rite just pick brands you like
How can I tell what Amp alternator I have? I have a 2003 chevy avalanche. To find out which belt I need, I need to know what size alternator. it's either, DAYCO Part # 5060923 {Effective Length 92.32" / Top Width .82" / Number of Ribs 6} Multiple Accessory, w/105 Amp Alt. or DAYCO Part # 5060930 {Effective Length 93.00" / Top Width .82" / Number of Ribs 6} Multiple Accessory, w/145 Amp Alt. Can you tell by looking at the alternator?
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